Lining guide cam for necktie sewing machines



March 27, 1945. I J. A. NEUMAIR' 2,372,224

LINING GUIDE CAM FOR NECKTIE SEWING MACHINES Filed May 2, 1942 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Flat [AIYENTOZR JOSEPH A. NEUMAIR March 27, 1945. J. A. NEUMAIR 2,372,224

LINING GUIDE CAM FOR NECKTIE SEWING MACHINES Filed May 2, 1942 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 2

220 2,24 ATTO/F/YAEY March 27, 1945. J, NEUMAiR LINING GUIDE CAM FOR NEQKTIE SEWING MACHINES Filed May 2, 1942 3 SheetsSheet 3 INVENTOR. Jssfiw/i MuMA/R A TTORNEY'.

ANN

WNW QNN Patented Mar. 27, 1945 LINING GUIDE CAM FOR NECKTIE SEWING MACHINES Joseph A. Neumair, Hollis, N. Y., assignor to i,

American Machine & Foundry Company, a cornotation of New Jersey Application May 2, 1942, Serial No. 441,464

3 Claims] (Cl.112--152) This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to improvements in necktie sewing machines. In necktie sewing machines such as shown in the co-pending application of C. W. Johnson and J. A. Neumair, Serial No. 420,618, filed November 27, 1941, the necktie lining passes between a pair of spaced, cam-actuated guides which engage the margins thereof and maintain it in a position wherein its longitudinal center line coincides with the elongated horizontal needle upon which it is advanced lengthwise and thereby stitched to the necktie fabric. In the type of machine referred to there is provided an endless rotary pattern band or cam whose edges engage cam followers connected to the lining guides, whereby the lining guides are moved toward andaway from each other to'maintain them in engagement with the lining edges along portions of varying width, as the lining is ad vanced upon the needle. The pattern band or cam with which such machines were equipped consisted of two sections mounted upon a wheel and having their ends fastened to each other, so that rotation of said wheel caused displacement of the lining guides toward and away from each other. However this type of cam did not permit for adjustment to compensate for variations in the degree of taper of different shapes of linings;

One of the main objects of the invention is to provide improved mechanism for guiding the lining. For this purpose there is provided an improved cam which consists of six pieces of sheet metal or other suitable materiaL- One of these pieces is a starting point piece which has two parallel edges of unequal length andis not adjustable, it being fastened to the rim of the wheel and operating to spread the lining guides apart sufiiciently to permit the leading end of the lining to be inserted therebetween. The lining is inserted transversely through an'L-shaped slot in the table in front of the feeding and stitch-form- "ing mechanism. The lining guide adjacent the inner end of the slot is controlled from the cam follower engaging the shorter parallel edge, and the other lining guide which is adjacent the bend in the L-slot is controlled from a cam follower engaging the longer parallel edge of the starting piece and is displaced beyond the outer side of the slot to permit the lining to be inserted between the liningguides. Thus the outer lining guide will not be returned inwardly to a position wherein it would obstruct theinsertion of the lining until after the other lining guide has been displaced inwardly to the position wherein the latter begins guiding the inner lining edge. Heretofore both lining guides were simultaneously displaced inwardly into the positions wherein they began guiding the lining edges, and incase of over-travel of the pattern band the outer lining guide would be in a positionwherein it obstructed the insertion of the lining into the slot. Since the longer parallel edge of my starting piece maintains the outer lining guide out of obstructing position for a-longe'r interval there is less likelihood of the insertion of the lining being obstructed by' the movement of the outer lining guide into obstructing position, as there will be more time'in which to stop the machine before the stated obstruction of the insertion of the lining will result. a

To the starting piece are adjustably connected two pieces which are pivotally mounted at their otherends-on' the rim of the wheel to permit spreading apart of these .pieces in conformity with variations in the degree of taper of the leading ends of various shapes of linings. Accordingly it is a further object of the invention to provide adjustment of the pattern band to compensate variations in thedegree of taper of the leading end of various shapes of linings. Moreover the outer edges of these pieces are flared outwardly adjacent the starting piece to correspond to the flaring shape of the leading end of certain types of necktielinings, so that the lining guides will be maintained in engagement with the same.

p The neck-bandpiece, which is overlapped by the ends'of the pivotally mounted pieces just described, is of uniform width and fastened to thewheel rim; or this piece may be eliminated and the wheel rim used :instead. Two run ofi pieces connect the neck-band piece and the starting piece. The run-off pieces may be pivotally mounted at one end on the neck-band piece and adjustably secured at. their other ends to permit them to be spread apart to correspond to variations in the taper of the trailing end of various shapes of linings. The outer edges of the runoff pieces may also be flared outwardly adjacent the starting piece to cause outward displacement of -the'lining guides in conformity with the flaring shape of the trailing end of certain types of linings. i

7 Moreover the run-01f pieces have straight inner edges and may be reversed on the wheel so that their straight edges guide the cam-followers to displace the lining guides in conformity with the straight taper of the trailing end of certain types of linings. Similarly, the other two pieces have straight inner edges. and may be similarly re- Furthermore the pivoted pieces may be adjusted to compensate for different degrees of: taper between the leading and trailing ends of the. lining at one or both edges of the lining.

In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification and in which like charactors of reference indicate the same or like parts:

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a: necktie sewing machine equipped with the improved pattern band or cam;

Fig. 2 is an end elevation thereof;

Fig. Sis a detail side elevation of the supporting. wheelwith the improvedcam mounted thereon;

Fig. 4 is a development shown in plan view: of the supporting wheel: with the cam. mounted thereon;

Fig. 5. is a development shown in side elevation of the supporting: wheel. with the cam; mounted thereon;

Fig. 6- is a cross-section on. the line (it-.6; of Fi 4;

Fig. 7 is. a crossrsection on the line. 13-1-1. of Fig. 4';

4 Fig. 8 is a cross-section on the limit-Q8 ofjEig:

; and

Fig. 9 is a developed plan vierwsimilar: to Fig; 4 showing thev cam pieces reversed. to. engage their outwardly-flared edges with the cam. followers.

Referring to.Fig..1-, wherein. the type of sewing machine disclosed in the. above-mentioned co:- pending application of C.1W". Johnson and; J.'. A. Neumair is: shown equipped: with the improved patterneband; the. crimper bars: I on the upper sprocket chain I2 and the crimperbars l4 on the lower sprocket chain I6 have suitably beveled faces to. provide triangular teeth which inter-en.- gage with each other as shown, to form pleats. in the superposed necktie liningand fabric. and ad, Vance the same: over the eye I8; of the. needle The needle is slidably mounted in a needle: holder 22' of well known construction arranged! at. the rear end of themachine. The shank of the. nee.- dle extends forwardly from the needleholder and through transverse slots 24: and 25 in the. crimper bars I0 and I4 (Fig. 2). The slots of opposed crimper bars are aligned. witheach other and coact to grip the needle while. the superposed neck.- tie lining and fabric are being advanced upon the. shank of the needle, when the sprocket-chains: I2 and I6 are drivenv in a. direction to stitch. the lining and fabric; together. Thus the. needle is slid backwardly' in itsholder until its eye assumes the dotted; positiont8 shown in Fig; l.

The opposed crimper bars 28 and 30: have inter-engaging teeth' which form a. series. of relatively' narrow pleats in the leading end: of the lining, so that upon penetration of the same by the. needle: there will be formed a series. of short stitches ahead of the stitches formed when the pleats resulting from the inter-engagement of bars I0: and I4 are penetrated by the needle. There is also provided a crimper bar 32 on the upper chain I2 which engageswith one beveled face of an underlying crimper bar 34, which is of the same configuration and size as the bars 10 and I4 and mounted on the lower chain I6, to form a. single pleat in both the lining and the leading end of the fabric thus uniting the same with a single short stitch when crimper bars-32 and 34 advance this pleat in the lining and the underlying leading end of the necktie fabric on the needle. The opposed crimper bars ahead of the bars 28 and 30 have the same configuration and are mounted on sprocket chains I2 and IS in the same manner as the crimper bars I0 and I14] following the crimper bars 32 and 34, and are accordingly designated as I0 and I4, respectively. The crimper bars 28, 30, 32 and 34 have transverse slots similar to the slots 24 and 26.

The thread T is drawn from the spool S and guided through a ring and through a hole in the; bracket 42, the ring serving to tension the thread which is then drawn through a hole 44 in guide 46 and through a hole in an upright bracket 48- fastened. to the needle. holder, the thread being then drawn along the transverse slots of the crimper bars wherein the needle is-positioned. and threaded through the eye It thereof. The lower sprocket chain I6 is, formed as a triple width chain running, over a triple sprocket 50 fastened; on a. shaft 52 supported in the front frame 54. (Fig. 1). and, a rear. frame 56 (Fig. 2), these frames being supported by a bed 51. Chain I 6 alsoruns. over a triple sprocket 58 mounted on a shaft. 50: which is supported in the front and rear frames 54- and 56. Shaft 60; carries a sprocket 62 driven by a sprocket chain 64 from. suitable reversing mechanism such. as shown in the above mentioned application of C. W. Johnson, et 2.1., Serial. No. 420,618..

Ihereyersing mechanism (not shown) may be operated. as fully; described in the abovev mentioned application to drive the shaft. 60 forwardly or rearwardly, and. av gear IIIl. mounted on shaft 60,. will drive-a gear H2 loosely mounted on a bolt I,I;3 passing through the front frame 54 and supporting the; rear end of they bars H4 and H5. A triple sprocket II 6 loosely mounted on the portion of; bolt. I'I3 betweenthe bars H4 and H5 drives the triple sprocket chain I2, the latter running over the. triple idler sprocket I I8 loosely mounted on the stud I20 (Fig. 1)., threaded into the front end of the; bar II4 which is fastened to the front frame 54: by a screw I2I passing through an elongated slot in the frame 5.4 (Fig. 2). The bolt I I3 and the stud I20 are also connected by the support bar 115. On the stud I20 are loosely mounted rollers (not shown) at either'end of the triple sprocket H8 to support the ends of the crimper'bars as they pass around the sprocket I I8. A n-ut I22 threaded on the outer end of the shaft I20 retains the sprocket and rollers thereon. To the upper edge of the bar. H4 is fastened a cover 202a overlying. the upper run of the upper sprock et chain, I2, and at the front end of the cover 202 is hinged a guard 204 which hangs down in posi-" tion to prevent, the operator from inserting her fingers between the upper andlower crimper bars.

Qn-the: end. ofthe shaft. 52. protruding from frame 54 is mounted a pinion I38 which drives aring gear I32 attached to a wheel I34 fastened on the shaft I36. The wheel I34 on its peri-phery carries the pattern band or cam I38 which forms the subject matter of. they present invention; and controls the. cam followers of the lining guide mechanism. One of. thecam followers I40 is supported. by a block I42 fastened to a rod I44 which carries a block I45. to which is secured a guide-finger I48 which has, a downward- 1y bent portion on its upper end'underlying the transverse portion I50 ofthe L-slot I5I in the inclined plate or table I52. The other cam follower I53 is carried bythe block I55 which is fastened to a rod I51 passing through a notch in upper end of the block I46 and fastened to the block I59 on which is secured a guide finger IBI, which is of the same shape as finger I48 and interchangeable with it, and also provided with a bent portion on its upper end underlying the transverse portion I50 of slot I5I. Tension spring I53 is anchored to a hook I65 on block I59 and secured to a post I61 secured to the block I45. Thus the guide fingers I6I and I48 are yieldingly urged toward each other, the extent of separation thereof being determined by the contour of the cam I 38 suitably designed to initially displace the finger IIiI outwardly to a position wherein its bent upper end lies at the outer side of the bend in the slot I5I to permit the lining to be slid through the outer end of the slot into the transverse portion I50 thereof when the crimper bars 28 and 30 are approaching the position shown in Fig. 1 around the sprockets H8 and 50. At the same time the finger I48 is disposed in a position to engage one edge of a lining held crimper bar 28, one' edge of the fabric being po-' sitioned along a stationary guide (not shown) to place the fabric in the desired central position relative to the needle, the leading end of the fabric being clamped between the adjacent sides of the bars 28 and 32 and stitched to the lining as the bars 28 and 32 continue traveling toward the rear sprockets.

The length of the opposed runs of the sprocket chain is sufiicient to stitch a desired maximum length of fabric to a lining, and the contour of the cam or pattern band I38 is such that the followers I48 and I6I are simultaneously displaced to predetermined positions at either side of the desired center line of the lining coinciding with the needle to properly guide thelining during substantially its entire length until the cam I38 returns to the position shown in Fig, 2 which occurs when the crimpers bars 28 and 30 have been advanced a predetermined maximum distance toward their rear sprockets. The gear ratio between the ring gear I32 and the pinion I30 is such that when the sprocket chains I2 and I5 make one or more complete circuits around the sprockets and back to initial position the cam I38 will also be returned to its initial position.

The pattern band I36 selected to exemplify the invention consists of six cam pieces which are fastened to the periphery of the wheel I34. The starting piece 200 has parallel edges 20I and 202 of unequal length which engage the cam followers I40 and I53 respectively, at the initial position of the pattern band and thereby displace the lining guide !48 to a position adjacent the inner end of the slot portion I 50 and displace the lining guide I6! to a position at the outer side of the bend in the slot I5I where it will not obstruct the insertion of the leading end of the lining into the guiding portion I50 of the slot. As the cam follower I40 rides oi the edge 2III on to the cam piece 204 the lining guide I48 is displaced into a position corresponding to the point of slot I50 at which the inner edge of the inserted lining should be disposed in order that its longitudinal center line should coincide with the needle. Subsequently the cam follower I 53 rides off edge 202 and on to the cam piece 203, whereupon lining guide I5I is displaced inwardly to a position where it will engage the outer edge of the centered lining. The length of the cam pieces 204 and 205 corresponds to the length of the portion of the'leading end of the lining to be uided.

As shown in Figs. 2, 4 and 8, the cap screw 208 is threaded into the wheel and passes through a hole in the starting piece 200 and elongated slots 209 in the underlying ends of the cam pieces 204 and 206, to secure the same to the rim of wheel I34. The outer sides of cam pieces 204 and 206 have straight edges extending from the starting piece to their outer ends, and the cam followers ride upon these edges until they engage the neck band piece U I. The cam pieces 204 and 206 and the underlying portion of the neck band piece are secured to ther im of wheel I34 by cap screws 2I3 and 2I5 threaded into the wheel, the screw 2I3 passing through elongated slots 2II and a hole in the neck band piece and the screw 2I5 passing through aligned holes in the pieces 204 and 205 and the neck band piece.

When the neck band piece travels past the cam followers, they engage the straight outer edges of the run-off pieces 220, which have a length corresponding to the portion of the trailing end of lining to be guided, and are secured to the neck band piece by a cap screw 223 threaded into the rim of the wheel. At their other ends the pieces 220 are secured to the starting piece by a cap screw 22I threaded into the wheel and passing through elongated slots 222 in these pieces and a hole in the starting piece. A cap screw 224 passing through elongated slots 226 in the pieces 220 is threaded into the wheel and secures the middle portion of these pieces thereon. After the run-off pieces are moved past the cam followers the latter re-engage the starting piece, and the machine is reversed by depressing the other end of treadle I04, whereby the pattern band is returned to the initial position shown in Fig. 2. I I

The neck band piece is of substantially uniform width in conformity with the uniform width of the neck band part of most shapes of necktie linings, but the degree of taper of the leading and trailing ends of various shapes of necktie linings may vary. Hence, upon unloosening the screws securing the pieces 204, 206 and 220 to the wheel they may be spread apart or brought closer together, the screws 2I5 and 223 respectively serving as pivots. As shown in Fig. 4, the cam pieces 204 and 208 have been adjusted for a degree of taper of the leading end of the lining which is greater than the degree of taper of its trailing end, as indicated by the dimension lines A and B, respectively. However, either of the pieces 204, 206 or either of pieces 220 may be adjusted so that it will be asymmetrically arranged with respect tothe other piece of its pair, in conformity with any desired condition.

It will be noted that the outer ends of the slots 222 extend into the proximity of the outwardly flared edges of the pieces 220, so that the pieces 220 in Fig. 4 may be spread apart until the inner ends of slots 222 adjacent the edges of the outwardly flared portions of these pieces engage the screws 22L Thus the pieces 220, may be spread apart to a greater extent than if the inner ends of the slots 222' terminated at a point aligned with the continuation, of the straight edges of the pieces 22B extending from said outwardly flared edges.

The cam pieces 204, 206 may be reversed on the wheel, as shown in Fig, 9, so that the edges 236 thereof, which are flared, outwardly adjacentthe starting piece in conformity with the flared contour of the corresponding portion of the leading end of another type of lining, will displace the lining guides to maintain them in engagement with the edges of the leading end of the type of lining referred to.

Some types of linings have a trailing end of substantially uniform width, and to compensate for the same the run-off pieces 220 may be arranged as shown in Fig. 9. In this case the outg wardly flared portions of the pieces overlap the starting piece 200 so that the outer edges of the pieces 22%] define a continuation of the neck band piece up to the starting piece. This arrangement of the pieces 220 may be used in conjunction with the arrangement of the pieces 204 and 206 shown in Fig. 9, for guiding a lining having a flared leading end and a trailing end of uniform determined relation between the edges of the necktie part and said position, of a cam follower connected to said member, a support rotating upon a horizontal axis, and a series of cam pieces mounted on the periphery of said support in position to successively engagesaid follower and thereby displace said follower to different posl tions, a plurality of said cam pieces being plvot ally mounted at one end thereof and individually adjustable upon their pivots'transversely of said support to vary the displacement of said guide member in accordance with the requirements of difierent shapes of necktie parts.

2. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a support rotating upon a horizontal axis, of a pair of cam pieces mounted on said support, a pair of lining guide members arranged to engage the. edges of a necktie lining and guide the same as it is advanced lengthwise therebetween, a pair of cam followers connected to said members and arranged to engage the lateral edges of said cam pieces, yielding means urging said followers against said cam pieces, the contour of said lateral edges of the cam pieces being such that members will be displaced toward each other to follow the contour of the tapered leading end of a lining advanced therebetween, said cam pieces being pivotally mounted at their ends upon said support and individually adjustable thereon about their pivots to vary the displacement of said members to follow the contour of edges of the leading ends of linings having different degrees of taper.

3. In a necktie sewing machine, the combina tion with a support rotating on a horizontal axis, of a starting cam piece mounted on said support, a neckband cam piece mounted on said support, a pair of primary cam pieces mounted on said support and connecting said starting and neck band cam pieces, a pair of lining guide members arranged to engage the edges of a necktie lining and guide the same as it is advanced lengthwise therebetween, cam followers connected to said members and arranged to engage the lateral edges of said primary cam pieces for displacement ofv said members toward each other to follow the contour of the tapered leading end of a necktie lining, a second pair of tapered cam pieces mounted on said support and connecting saidv neckband piece and starting piece and having straight lat eral, edges on one side and outwardly flared lateral edges on the other sides adjacent the'rear the latter leave the neckband piece, said second,-

ary cam pieces having aligned transverse slots extending into the outward flared portions thereof, a screw passing through said slots and thread-- ed into said support whereby the secondary cam pieces may be adjusted outwardly on their pivots until the inner ends of said slots engage said screw, and a means for yieldingly maintaining said followers in engagement with the edges of said cam pieces.

JOSEPH A. NEUMAIR. 

